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This design came out of a desire for comfort and a need to be able to
get dressed by myself. I was planning to go to Bristol's final week-end
and wanted to be in costume, but didn't have anyone to go with me/help me
smooth all of my skirts over my hoops. It's also usually sweltering in
August, and I didn't feel up to a corset. I made all of these
realizations late Sunday night, the week before I was going.
I quickly came up with a plan, spent my day off on Monday sewing up a
storm and finished the details in the evenings. I can't beleive I pulled
it off in a week.
Sources
I took my inspiration from various works by Vicenzo Campi, an italian
artist working in the late 16th century. He did multiple paintings of
italian working class women. The thing I like about the women in these
images is that their clothing is simple, but still made with lively color
and simple decoration. Take a look at Jen's
Italian Working-Class Dress Gallery for some examples.
Construction
I am wearing two skirts under a front lacing kirtle. I have a scarf
around my shoulders and tucked into my bodice front. I am also wearing a
white caul and straw hat, an apron, a pouch and carrying a basket.
The kirtle is made from 5 yards of tea-stain colored cotton broadcloth
and trimmed with scraps from a green cotton bedsheet. I draped the
pattern for the bodice on myself with minimal bloodloss. The pattern came
out perfect and I'm never going back. The skirt is a simple rectangle of
fabric knife-pleated to the waist of the bodice. I handworked eyelets
using green embroidary thread to match the trim. I used Marion's
tutorial as a guide, and they have to be the best
eyelets I've ever made.
One of my underskirts is a simple pale blue cotton affair I made a few
years ago. I also made a new skirt out of 2 and a half yards of marigold
colored wool. It was 60" wide, so I just cut the length in half, turned
the pieces on their sides and pieced them back together to make a slightly
longer rectangle just the right height for me. I knife pleated it to a
waistband. The apron was made from some cotton scraps. I just sewed a
rectangle to a long piece from the selvage and tied it on. The coif is
pretty basic. The scarf is just a rectangle of linen, edges unfinished.
The straw hat is something Jeff brought home from the thrift store for me
one day. It's not really the right shape, but I like it anyway. I don't
have a picture of them, but I'm wearing a pair of $10 payless mary janes
with some cutowrk designs on the front. They looked better and were more
confortable than I expected.
Assorted Views
Click on the image for a larger vie.

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The slimming three-quarter view. |
The back view. I really like the way the
pleats fall in the back- these are just knife pleats and it was
my first time using them. You can also see the back of the scarf
I used in lieu of a partlet. |
The sassy-over-the-shoulder-view. You
can see my pouch in this picture. It has very un-period
dragons on it, but I'm wearing it because I love it, it's
incredibly handy. Plus it was an anniversary gift ;) |

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The wool underskirt. Isn't that an awesome shade
of orangy yellow? It was too fun to pass up. |
Just another view in different lighting. |
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This website was created by Sandy Kaye.
Feel free to e-mail me.
I'd love to hear from you! |